How To Clean A Ruger Sr22 Pistol

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Cleaning Ruger SR-22

Thread starter temchik
Start date Nov 3, 2012

#1/28

Guys, I have a question about cleaning my SR-22 barrel - I saw a video online that said you always supposed to clean a barrel from the chamber out, never fron the muzzle end... is this true? Because the brush does not quite fit that way, the pistol is rather small and I don't want to remove the barrel each time...

Also, another video said one should not use stainless steel cleaning rods, that's what I bought with the pistol, that it somehow can damage the rifling...

Thanks!

#2/28

Chamber out, you want to stay true to the grooves + lands.

#3/28

Chamber out, you want to stay true to the grooves + lands.

this, plus if you start from the chamber you stand a better chance of cleaning the transition from chamber to barrel. (large dia to smaller dia)

but... if youre using an alum rod & plastic jag, running a patch w/ #9 down the bore won't hurt, and is arguably better than doing nothing. I don't use St Stl. Brass or alum, easier on the finish.

milktree

#4/28

Chamber out, you want to stay true to the grooves + lands.

When he says, "true to the grooves + lands" he means, "don't let the bristles scrape anything but longitudinally. Keep the cleaning rod as co-axial to the barrel as you can. You don't want the rod to scrape against the crown of the barrel or the rifling.

Some of that is unavoidable, but do what you can.

Are you sure your cleaning rod is stainless and not anodized aluminum?

The other thing to consider is that handguns just aren't that accurate. If you had a TOZ-35 I'd be careful about how you clean it, but for any handgun that's not a real target pistol, there are other things worth obsessing about.

Revolvers are really hard to clean from the chamber only, for instance, yet they can be some of the most accurate handguns out there.

Another thing to consider is that .22s don't really need to be cleaned that often, lots of people don't ever clean them until they fail to feed, and they still shoot well and last forever. The rifling in a .22 is generally so shallow it a) doesn't collect that much lead, and b) is easier to wear down with cleaning.

#5/28

Yes, the kit says stainless steel rod... it's impossible to get the brush and the rod chamber in, may be a snake....

And I have not shot lead yet, only copper plated mini-mags....

#6/28

It does get dirty around the chamber and a cloth get a little dirty after running through the barrel, I am wondering if I even need to used the brush at all if I don't shoot lead...

#7/28

I don't use a brush very often. Probably never on a 22. Patch w/ #9, a clean patch, patch with a drop or two of oil, and back to the safe for a week or a month.

#8/28

Thank you, guys, for your replies...

Another question - is #9 + oil better than CLP? Or roughly the same?

milktree

#9/28

Thank you, guys, for your replies...

Another question - is #9 + oil better than CLP? Or roughly the same?

different. CLP is a lot more pleasant. I sometimes think that #9 cleans better, but I might be fooling myself with the nasty smell.

I basically only ever use CLP anymore.

Really though, it's a .22 auto. Just shoot it (lead, copper washed, waxed, whatever) until it doesn't feed right, and then clean the action. You could probably never clean the barrel and it'd work fine until you get bored with the gun and want to clean it for a quick sale.

#10/28

different. CLP is a lot more pleasant. I sometimes think that #9 cleans better, but I might be fooling myself with the nasty smell.

I basically only ever use CLP anymore.

Really though, it's a .22 auto. Just shoot it (lead, copper washed, waxed, whatever) until it doesn't feed right, and then clean the action. You could probably never clean the barrel and it'd work fine until you get bored with the gun and want to clean it for a quick sale.

I am surprised by this, I've always thought that .22lr is a nasty dirty little round that will foul everything and needs a lot of cleaning... especially lead...

#11/28

I am surprised by this, I've always thought that .22lr is a nasty dirty little round that will foul everything and needs a lot of cleaning... especially lead...

I use CCI mini-mags, very clean burning, no residue at all. I don't always clean when i'm done shooting. Long term, leaving corrosive residue in the barrel, or particles that can absorb moisture, will lead to pitting. Gumming up the action with residue may result in ftf & fte. SR22 is a nice pistol, and worth maintaining. Larger calibers such as 9mm leave a lot more residue and require cleaning more often.

#12/28

My other caliber pistols like my SS 357mag or my 1911 I clean after every range trip, because I like them looking pretty.

My SR22 though I just cleaned for the first time a few days ago, after a couple thousand rounds. The evil black guns are harder to tell they're dirty. So for me I usually leave those. Just do the best you can. You'll realize that 'your way' is the best, because it works for you.

I use Hoppes with a brush and patches. Than a few drops of oil, and than wipe down with my Hoppes oil rags. Takes away fingerprints, and keeps the finishes protected.

northframingham

#13/28

For the ramp on a SS barrel I rub it with a small lead away cloth... Don not use it on BLUE finishes, it takes it off. But on SS like the barrel it's fine. Then for inside the barrel it can get quite tight... Use a Hoppe's BoreSnake in .22 OR the Hoppe's "Viper" BoreSnake (much tighter)

Boresnakes are a godsend! they work great especially on .22LR's!!!!!

http://youtu.be/WCmwau2vQ2c (BoreSnake Viper)

For a little while I have also been using FrogLube on my .22LR's & M&P
the carbon wipes off really easily. The stuff works great!

http://youtu.be/3-depzYZC8w (FrogLube)

Last edited: Nov 4, 2012

#14/28

If you really want to use a standard rod, then feed the rod in from the muzzle end, screw the brush on, and then pull it through. I haven't tried it that way, but it seems like that would work. Personally, I just drag my .22 boresnake through mine, and then clean the feed ramp, rails etc, with #9 on a q-tip, or patch then re-oil it and slap it back together. I just use the "rifle" version of the boresnake that I use of my ARs since it would be a waste to spend the extra money for the pistol version. You should just buy one because it will speed your cleanings up 100% over using the brushes and patches. If you get the longer rifle version, you can use it for when you get either a .22 rifle, or a .223 AR, so it is a worthwhile investment. [wink] This problem that you are having because of the fixed barrel on the SR22 is something that happens with other guns too, like AKs (which most people say don't EVER need to be cleaned anyway), M1s, etc. If you prefer a more traditional style of cleaning with brush/patches, then you can also get the Otis "Tactical" cleaning kit, which uses a cable that you feed in from the muzzle end, then screw the jag or brush on and pull it through. It works good, but honestly, you will get spoiled quickly if you ever try the boresnake, and won't even bother with the other kits anymore. [wink]

#15/28

When I use the Otis kit I feed it in from the chamber end not the muzzle end. It works well but not as well as advertised. A bore snake is much faster.

#16/28

Hose 'em out with your favorite cleaner and use a patch worm

all you need is your favorite chemicals and a supply of 1" round patches.

#17/28

I have over 20,000 rounds of what ever has been cheap through my sr22 and I still have not cleaned it and it is still functioning great and super accurate. I love that thing [smile] I think the barrel removal is just one screw

#18/28

I have over 20,000 rounds of what ever has been cheap through my sr22 and I still have not cleaned it and it is still functioning great and super accurate. I love that thing I think the barrel removal is just one screw

Wow!

#19/28

You know the SR-22 pistol is super easy to field strip and you don't even need tools:
[video=youtube_share;UVOjFV-sbBs]http://youtu.be/UVOjFV-sbBs[/video]

#20/28

You know the SR-22 pistol is super easy to field strip and you don't even need tools:
[video=youtube_share;UVOjFV-sbBs]http://youtu.be/UVOjFV-sbBs[/video]

you need just an allen wrench and the barrel comes off next

#21/28

I got myself a bore snake, good reviews, am I supposed to put CLP down the barrel first? Or right on the snake?

#22/28

...the pistol is rather small and I don't want to remove the barrel each time

Really?

#23/28

Yes... the barrel is attached to the frame by a screw

#24/28

Yes... the barrel is attached to the frame by a screw

I was unaware of that, I don't have one yet...now I get why you wouldn't want to...

#25/28

I got myself a bore snake, good reviews, am I supposed to put CLP down the barrel first? Or right on the snake?

I don't put any chemicals on the snake at all. Just using it dry does a great job. I'm sure some do put chemicals/oils on them, but then it will get dirty faster and you will have to clean the cleaning tool. Like I said, I just clean the ramp, slides and frame first using CLP, #9, or whatever, then run the snake through the barrel once or twice and it looks like new. Whole process is 5 minutes or less including re-assembly.

- - - Updated - - -

Yes... the barrel is attached to the frame by a screw

True, and I have never found a reason to remove the barrel yet. I suppose you might have to with certain cleaning tools, but with the snake, or Otis kit there is no need.

#26/28

Thanks everybody, very helpful!

#27/28

Yesterday something odd happened... I blasted the internals with CLP a little too much by accident and trigger and slide release function became very... "sandy"... Like there was sand in it... Trigger was horrible and when I pushed on the slide release I heard scratching... I got my can of compressed air and blew all CLP out of the internals. Damn, how much was there! After the air treatment the "sand" disappeared, but I am wondering - All that extra oil that tricks down to internals is going to get gunked up with debris on my next shoot and how do I clean it out then?

#28/28

I have the SR .22 also. I bought a cheap Outers aluminum rod with brass barrel brushes and plastic patch holders. I am able to feed the rod in from the ramp side out. Have been using Hoppes #9 solvent and a little Rem oil afterwars and wipe down with a microfiber cloth. I just bought a bore snake for it. Can't wait to try it out. Cleaning the pistol is like therapy for me. Sitting at the kitchen table with my brother, drinking coffee and cleaning our guns after a shoot.